Tuesday, 30 July 2013

Day 1: Leh


Shanti Stupa
The plan for today was to roam around the city Leh. The first in our itinerary was the Leh Palace. Overlooking the town of Leh, the Leh Palace was built similar to the Potala palace in Lahsa, but in a smaller scale. It is 8 stories in high, though the royal family used only the top floor for living. The rest I think is for storage and other purposes.

Am and me walked through the narrow alleys of the old town of Leh in the direction of the palace. The route was easy to find, as all you have to do is to walk in the direction of the palace. The old town seem to have frozen for decades with mud walled houses and pebble streets and the street dogs (many of them) occupying each and every corner of the alley. The climb to the entrance of the palace was not so steep. Still, I realised the high altitude effects, with breathing heavily in a few hundred meters. Just after one day in Leh, my body is definitely not acclimatised. Not surprising as the minimum number of days required, as per experts, is 3 days.

The palace is undergoing a lot of restoration works. Inside the palace is there is a photographic exhibition of the photos taken from the end of 1800’s. One could see that the region  hasn’t changed much in the last century. Other than that there is not much to see in the palace as most of the mud walled rooms were empty. But the view of the town from the top of the Palace was magnificent.

From the Leh Palace we climbed to the Namgyal peak. Slightly steeper than the climb to the palace, it was a good test to see if the body is ready for the trekking days ahead. As before, I felt tired and breathed frequently as before. I made a couple of stops in between. The peak includes the fort of Tashi Namgyal which overlooks the Leh palace and the temple of Maitreya (future Buddha). It is also the place where the king offered the bodies of the defeated Mongols to the deities. The peak offered a breath taking view of the city of Leh.

From the Namgyal peak we climbed down to the city to have our lunch. Our next plan was to go to the office of the Womens Alliance of Ladakh. According to my guide book there is a small film show about the culture of Ladakh at 3 pm every day. When we reached there we realised that the film is no longer shown there. We didn’t know about it before as the travel guide is already 8 years old. At 3 pm they had a meeting of the Womens Alliance planned. So they invited us to take part in the meeting in order to get an overall view of the work done by the group. It was quite interesting. About 20 Ladakhi women were there in the meeting. They explained about the origin of the alliance and the work done by the group. The group goes from villages to villages educating the villagers about the importance of sustaining the Ladakhi culture, being self sufficient, prevention against diseases like TB, HIV etc, efforts to ban plastics in the region etc. It was quite an impressive effort with the alliance started with 70 people and having grown to about 5000 people.

Our initial plan was to go to the Shanti Stupa in the evening and watch the sunset from there. We cancelled the plan as the day was mostly cloudy. While we were coming back from the Womens Alliance the weather became partly sunny again. So we decided to carry on with the plan to go to the Shanti Stupa. With 554 steps to climb, it was not an easy task. In fact climbing the steps in the thin air was really difficult. Once on the top I was quite glad that I decided to visit the Stupa. It had a peaceful atmosphere with the Tibetan chants through loudspeaker in the background and also offered spectacular views of Leh from above. After taking a tea from the café at the Stupa we climbed down to the town for the dinner. Afterwards we went back to the homestay to end a somewhat tiring day.

 

Friday, 26 July 2013

Day 25: Back Home

Back to the grey, dull and cold Germany!! Sitting in the train from the Frankfurt airport to the town I live. It was a horrible flight from Windhoek. The flight was delayed by more than 2 hours. And that too after they have preponed the starting time in the first place. By the time the plane left the runway it was around 10 pm. That is after about 7 hours since I reached the airport. Then it had a stopover at Luanda for some reason. In the end I missed my connecting train from the Frankfurt airport! What a journey! Probably a reminder to what lies ahead for me – the reality!
Sitting in the train, I am still trying to get a grip on my emotions. I had sent a sms to the Lady to see if everything went on well with her connecting flight from Johannesburg. Worrying unnecessarily I guess. Still very much confused about how everything went so wrong. Wonder whether it is wrong to like someone? I may never know what she thinks. All I know is that I like this women a lot and sincerely care about her. We have a lot in common – similar interests, similar views and more or less the same wavelength. From our time together in the last one month one thing I am sure about is that I will never be sorry for holding her hand as I genuinely felt so. I am only sorry to know that I hurt her by that. Will we ever be friends again like the way we were before or will I ever see again? Let the destiny decide that. I am happy that I met her.

Day 24: Windhoek - > Home



We had our breakfast at the hostel. Since we had to check out before 10 we packed our luggage and left it in the storage room. I had my flights only late evening and the Lady had her flights in late afternoon. Since we didn’t have anything else to do till our transport to the airport at 2.30 pm we decided to take a walk to the city and do window shopping as usual.

The Lady again seemed to be less cheerful today and chatted very less, may be a few words in an hour. As before, I was clueless, especially since she was in better spirits last nights. After roaming around some craft shops in the city we stopped at a café as the Lady was not so keen on ‘looking at the same things again and again’. I didn’t mind that actually as I thought I might come across something interesting at some corner. A few minutes earlier I came across a leather wall hanging which I thought of buying. But it was too expensive for my budget.
While sitting at the café the Lady hardly talked. She was playing with the straw of her juice all the time. It doesn’t take rocket science to see that something is not in order and I tried to ask her once and got the same old vague reply back. Clearly she was in no mood to talk and it was frustrating for me to be in a situation where I end up annoying her than helping her. I really wished that I could run away from there. After some time she said she is going back to the hostel and would like to sit down on the shade and read something. And suggested that I can go ahead with the window shopping.  But this is Windhoek and it is not safe for a tourist with a handbag to walk alone to the hostel. We had been warned before by the hostel staff and I didn’t want to take any risk on the last day. Moreover, for me the question of letting her go back alone didn’t exist at all. So I decided to walk back to the hostel with her though I was not so sure whether she liked it.

 I felt more and more that our friendship has come to an end. It started with the ellies in Swakop.  And now it has turned a full circle at Swakop. We were closer before than now. There was more trust and openness between us. In the last 4 weeks all those seemed to have vanished. There were times I felt that she is more interested in texting (whoever that lucky person is) than talking with me. Those times I felt more like a driver than a friend. There were times I felt like talking to a wall than to the dear friend I knew before. How did it come to this? I don’t know, and probably I will never know. I thought about talking to her about it sometimes.  Then decided against it as it won’t mean anything to her and most probably I will get the typical vague answers again. Now I really feel that she was a close friend only in my mind and for her I was always just a “travel buddy”. Probably it was like that all along and the I let my stupid mind run wild, as usual!
The driver from the African Tracks car rentals came to pick us up at 2.30 pm. After coming back to the hostel we hardly talked in between. I hurt to see that someone whom you considered as a close friend has just few words for you than to the driver who is a total stranger. The Lady checked in first as her flight with the South African airways leaves at 5.15 pm and mine was supposed to leave only at 8 pm. We had a late lunch at the airport restaurant in silence. I went to the security check to see her off. I decided to check in after she has left as I don’t think that I could see her leave.

The goodbye’s happened really quickly. I was quite numb, couldn’t remember what I was mumbling at that time. After checking in my luggage I sat down at one corner of the airport almost in tears. I wondered whether it is because I just lost a friend or is it more than that. I really don’t know. I don’t think I will meet her again. I am not even sure whether I will be in touch with her again like before. I would have loved to , but it didn’t seem sensible where there is a lack of trust and openness between us. I don’t want to be a friend “who is nice to have, but not absolutely necessary”. Even if she meant a lot to me! Life is full of surprises and one can only hope for the best.
I came to Africa trying to figure out my point of equilibrium of my life and I wonder now whether I will ever find one. I think the truth is that our friendship has finally run out of steam. I needed her and she never needed me. All she needed was just a travel buddy! And I am sorry, I am not that person!

Day 23: Swakopmund:-> Windhoek

We didn’t had any plans for today like yesterday. The main reason why we decided to come here rather than staying at Windhoek was to relax and be lazy. We got the spontaneous idea to go for a overland flights over Sossusvlei. I had been in Sossusvlei when I came to Namibia for the first time in 2008. It’s undoubtedly one of the most beautiful places in Namibia. The red coloured desert and the salt pans in the middle of it with skeletons of trees is a real natural wonder. I assume it will be more spectacular to see it from the air.
It was an expensive option with costs starting at a minimum of 240 euros per person for a 2.5 hours flight. But still I felt like it is a once in a life time opportunity to do so and if lucky we will get some nice snaps. Unfortunately we were too late to book the flights and since we have to get back to the bus station at 1.30 for our trip back to Windhoek our options were limited. So we decided to spend our time by window shopping as before. In a way it was good as it is stress free. Being with the Lady and to chat with her once in a while is always a good option. At the back of my mind I could still hear the clock ticking for our parting. I hate good byes, period! And with the Lady it is going to be harder even if it is going to be one sided feeling.

We took the public transport to get back to Windhoek. It is the first time in our whole trip that we are travelling on public transport. In all other occasions we had our own car or we travelled on other means of private transport. So it was a unique experience when compared to the relatively luxurious option that we used for going to Swakop. Still it was a good to travel with the ‘locals’, just getting a glimpse of their lifestyle. We reached Windhoek in good time at around 6.30 pm. We checked in again at Chameleon where we left our big luggage before heading to Swakop. We had already booked a double room for the night and it turned out to be a really good decision. For the first time in our whole trip we had a little bit of comfort and privacy.
After having a hot shower and sorting out our luggage we went to bar to order a pizza. But it was too late. So we had to settle down for a couple of beers and some chips. Not so bad! One last evening with the Lady and it went better than expected. She was in good mood and also opened up a little bit I think.

Day 22: Swakopmund


We didn’t have any specific plans for today other than just window shopping. After having a breakfast at the hostel we went for a walk in the town. The only goal was to check out the curio shops and buy some souvenirs if we find something interesting. We stopped by the beach to do some photography. I also took the time to check my emails, which I haven’t done for the last 3 weeks. I had applied to some jobs before I left and wanted to see if there are any responses to it. There had been some and I sent quick replies promising to get in touch again once I am back home in Germany.
The Lady and I continued with our window shopping latter on. I bought some paintings from one of the craft shops and then went back to the hostel at noon to have our lunch and a small break. In the afternoon we were back in the town popping in and out of shops again. As the sun started setting down we spent some time in the beach. The Lady was in a better mood today. At least she showed some interest in chatting a bit, which was nice. We went to the light house restaurant in the evening for our dinner. We were at the same place around 2.5 years before while we were both doing the volunteer project with the desert elephants. Our friendship started with the ellies in the deserts of Namibia. Now we are back here at the same place where it all started. And now I feel like our friendship has turned one complete circle. I invited her for the dinner. I felt like doing it, a parting dinner perhaps? Glad that she accepted it. Little bit of chatting and watching her talk made my evening.

When we were walking back to the hostel along the same street as before I realised how different it is now when compared to the old times. We were closer then, and now we are more like strangers, “travel buddies” as she would say. Missed the good old days!

Day 21: Harnas Rest Camp -> Windhoek -> Swakopmund

Its going to be one more long day today. First we have to drive around 300+ kms to Windhoek. We have to return our car there and then proceed to Swakopmund using local transportation which will take another 4.5 hrs.  Also, we should aim to return the car before 12 so as to avoid paying the rent for one extra day. It was a long drive, through tarred roads almost all the time. After driving through the bush for majority of the times it’s a bit boring to drive through the uneventful highways. Also, it was a bit tiring to drive through without any proper break.
We were able to give back the car at the African Tracks just after noon. In the end we drove approximately 5100 kms in 3 weeks through 3 countries - Namibia, Zimbabwe and Botswana. One hell of a ride, incredibly lucky and unlimited memories for a life time! We had to pay additional 900 N$ for the missing number plates and the scratch from the high lift jack on the side panel just above the rear tyre. Overall I guess we were lucky to be let off without any further charges, considering the adventurous drive we had the last weeks. The rental agency dropped as back to the Chameleon backpackers afterwards. It is where we stayed on our first night in Windhoek 3 weeks ago. The receptionist at the backpackers arranged for us the transport and accommodation at Swakopmund.

We left our main luggage there and left to Swakop with just a backpack necessary for the next two nights. We decided to go to Swakop instead of staying at Windhoek as it is a beautiful town on the beaches and also it is much safer place than Windhoek. We can move around freely without the need for looking over our shoulders for trouble all the time.  It was again a long trip, around 4.5 hours.  We reached Swakop around 6.30 pm. After a quick shower at the Villa Wiese, which is the same backpackers where we stayed 2 years back, the Lady and I went for a walk along the beach.
We hardly talked during the whole day. And while we were walking she seemed to be annoyed for some reason. Or at least she was not in her best spirits. I tried to keep some distance so as to avoid further trouble. In the evening we had dinner at one of the bars and went back to the hostel. One more uneventful day. Wish I could see her smiling and chatting cheerfully like before again. All those seems like past. `I no longer have a feeling that she likes my company. It feels more like she is somehow killing time before her trip back home. And it won’t necessarily matter who helps her in killing the time, either it’s me or somebody else. The best thing I could do now is not go get things worsen further. I hope I will be able to do that!

Day 20: Dqua Qare Game Farm -> Harnas Rest Camp


It’s a long day ahead of us. We are staring at about 420 kms of driving today. We left the community camp in the morning itself. The destination is Harnas Rest Camp in Namibia which is also a game farm and a wildlife research foundation. Except for the camps in Botswana we didn’t have any reservations in the camps in other countries. In Botswana, esp in the NP’s its compulsory to have advance reservations. But since its off season, I was sure that we don’t have to bother about any reservations in Namibia. The only problem with Harnas is that is about 100 km north of the Trans Kalahari highway. So if we don’t find any place to camp there then the only options left are to go for normal rooms, which will be expensive or to drive back all the way to the highway and look for other options. Both are not good. In addition the rates mentioned in the travel guides looked more than double the normal rates in Namibia. Since it is a game farm I expected that the rates include some kind of game drive. So I decided to call them in advance when we are on the road about campsite availability.
On the way we couldn’t reach the camp office in any of the telephone numbers mentioned in the travel guides. So we had no other option other than driving directly to them. We reached there around 4pm. The camp settings were a bit different from what we knew of other game farms. The rest camp is situated in a very large fenced area with the games in “semi captivity”. The whole extra money they charge for the camping/lodging obviously goes for maintaining that huge property. They also claim to conduct some wild life research. Unless I see some credible publications from the researches, I will be sceptical of those claims. But they do say that they take care of abandoned pets and do rescue and rehabilitation of the animals for more than 30 years, which is always a good thing. I hope they are really doing that for the exorbitant rates they charges. 

To our disappointment the game drives were not included in the rents. And I didn’t even feel like taking pictures of animals behind fences. Especially after coming across them roaming around freely in the national parks. Actually it is quite depressing to see them behind fences. I saw the first cheetah of our trip there. Beautiful cat, and my most favourite one, but felt sad to see it behind barbed fences. Wish I could talk with it. In the evening we could see some antelopes  (impalas and wildebeests) around our camp. Also we came across a new animal, a springhare, which looks almost like a rabbits with small ears, but hops around like a kangaroo. It also had a long black tipped tail. I had never seen/heard about this animal before. That was a nice surprise!
It’s the last night of our Kalahari adventure in the tent. The rest of the days are going to be in more or less civilized surroundings. I felt sad. I loved this life with all its rustiness, surprises and freedom. But then I am also aware that this is not real, in the end it is just holidays. When I was lying down in the tent I told the Lady that I am going to miss her. She didn’t say anything, obviously, the answer clear! Sometimes silence is the answer!