Tuesday, 27 February 2018

Day 10: Camp Wild to Purros


In the morning while having tea, one Himba boy came to our campsite out of nowhere. He didn’t come near, but was standing around 500 m away from our tent and started shouting at us. Both Bru and I didn’t understand a word of what he was shouting. We were calling out loud asking him to come near us. His tone didn’t sound friendly and we felt like he didn’t like us camping there. So we decided to leave the place. We finished our tea and packed our tents and left the place for good.

On the way to Orupembe we came across a large baobab tree. Baobab, the iconic tree of the African savannah is also called the ‘tree of life’. It grows upto a height of 25 m and the tree itself can be several thousand years old. From the size of it, it was definitely more than 100 years old. We stopped there and had our breakfast under its shades. It was really a nice place. After about an hour of staying under the shade we started our drive towards Orupembe. The landscape changed dramatically from bushland to vast plains with small small mountains in between. As we crossed Orupembe we realised that it is just a small village with few huts distributed in the plains and of no vegetation around. I even wondered whether there is any camping place here.

Later we came across the mysterious ‘lone man’ of Kaokoland. In the last years there have been many sightings of life-size rock sculptures around in these remote wild west regions of Namibia. They are created with masterful artistry and a deep sense of place, that it gives the impression of having sprung up from the earth. They take on different poses and are made from the rock existing in the area and they blend in perfectly with their surroundings. No one knows for sure who made these stone structures of humans around these uninhabited places. Though we read about it before our journey, we were not expecting to see it, as finding it is like searching for a needle in a haystack in these vast landscape. So it was quite surprising to see it and we both felt happy to see these lonely people :-)

The drive ahead was through the Namib desert, 100’s of kms along the deserted plains. It is pretty strange to have proper roads/tracks in these places and that too with road signs! The desert colour changed a lot from arid dry landscape, to yellowish sands to dark red sand, all within a couple of hours. Absolutely stunning, if you neglect the heat! As we approached Purros the mountains were surrounded by more and more sand.

The Purros village is situated in loose sandy regions. We stopped at the Purros community camp run by the Himba community. There were a lot of ellie dungs around, clearly showing the presence of desert ellies. The camp ground was beautiful, properly blended with nature. The campsites/toilets were hidden under short trees covered with leaves. It was a beautiful spot, but also very windy with fine sand flying around. At night after a barbeque and beer, it was time for night photography.

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