Today
starts our journey towards the infamous Coast of Skulls or Skeleton coast. Earlier
times the Skeleton Coast had a formidable reputation as the fogs and the strong
currents forced many ships into the uncharted sandbags of the west coast of
Namibia. Even if the sailors survived the wreck, there is hardly any chance to
survive the barren landscape towards the interior desert.
We
started in the morning from Palmwag and we were not sure whether we will be
getting the camping spot in Torra Bay or in the northern most point open to the
public – Terrace Bay. Still we thought we will drive to there and check at the
Springbok gate – one of the entry points to the Skeleton coast. The route as
expected was beautiful. As it has become default in our journey so far the
landscape changed from red rocky mountains to flat sandy plains towards the
border of the park. Once we reached the gate we got the permit to enter the
park from the check post. We enquired about the camping possibilities and the
lady in the gate called the Torra bay office and confirmed the availability.
Also, she informed us that there is no longer camping possibility at Terrace
Bay.
As
we drove toward Torra Bay we came across the famed Welwetchia plants or
Welwetchia Mirabilis in the plains. It is Namibia’s most famous species of
plant. At first glance they look like a foliage which emerges from the wooden
base in the barren land. It is said that Welwetchia can live for over 1000
years, though it is not clear how they get water in this dry and harsh gravel
plains. Other than that it was just barren land. As we approached towards Torra
sand dunes started appearing along the way. Mostly flat and sandy plains with
monstrous sand dunes was an impressive sight. The roads were also very good,
which came as a surprise as I was expecting the worst roads. As we closed on
the camp we started seeing huge tented camps in the middle of empty barren
land. We were totally shocked to see that. It is the Christmas holiday season
in Namibia and one of the favourite hobbies of the white Namibians/South
Africans is fishing in the sea during Christmas. For us it was hugely
disappointing to see a party camp site with loud music and huge tented camps.
And that too at a place where we least expected it – in the Skeleton coast.
What an irony!
On
the other hand we were lucky that we got the camping spot in this crowd. We
paid the rent at the reception and then proceeded to check out Terrace Bay
which is ~ 52 kms north from Torra Bay. The main road along the coast, C34,
towards from Hentis Bay to Terrace bay is what is locally called as the salt
road. Made of salt, gypsum and gravel, which has been hardened over years is
almost roak solid as a tarred road. One can drive as fast as possible, as long
as they are concentrated enough. Once in Terrace Bay we could see only a lodge
and couple of administrative buildings there. There is also a restaurant but
that was also empty. We came back to Torra Bay and set up our camp. It turned
out to be a terribly windy day with icy cold winds blasting from the Atlantic.
We struggled to make fire and cook. At night we even had to put on winter
clothes to beat the cold. It was not really a comfortable night.
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