Day 17: Wewelsburg to Windhoek

Its the last day of our road trip. Ah! Its always the hardest, when we realise that all the fun is over and we have to get back to our boring, and tough survival mode again. Like all other before us we also wish if the real life had been a big holiday.

We packed our tents, and cleaned up the vehicle in the morning. We were woken up by the natural alarm, the call of the peacock. Before that I didn’t even know that the peacocks voice could be so loud. They were all over the place in the lawn. Beautiful birds, natures creative talent at its best. We had our slow breakfast and then hit the road to Windhoek. We had made reservations at the Chameleon backpackers. In Namibia, during all our trips Chameleon is kind of a basecamp for us.

We checked in, dumped our bags and headed to the bar to have a drink. With a beer in hand we settled at the side of the pool. Tomorrow we have to return our car and then fly back home. :-(

Day 16: Dinosaur Tracks to Wewelsburg camping

We left the camping place in the morning towards Otjiwarango. We wanted to visit the Africat Foundation south of Otjiwarongo and if possible camp there. As we do not have any booking we were not sure whether we will find a camping spot there. Also as it is Namibian holiday time it is highly unlikely to get a place as they are usually heavily booked. When we reached there they said camping is not available but we can still visit the foundation as a day visitor. We decided to do that and we took a 1.5 hour which included an introduction about the foundation, visit to some of the resident cheetah enclosures, medical, feeding enclosures and a museum of stuffed animals of the region.

The area covering the foundation is huge ~ 20,000 hecters, which housed the cheetahs (around 24 of them) and wild leopards. The leopards are the original resident cats of the farm whereas the cheetahs are mostly rescued from other farms. The foundation usually does rescue, rehabilitation and also caring of cheetahs which cannot be released back to the wild. They also run some awareness and educational programs. They have one more sister organisation in the south of Etosha national park which monitors the lions coming out of the Etosha park boundary into the surrounding cattle farms. They help the farmers in building protective fences for their cattle, and also track the problem lions by collaring them.

We had lunch there afterwards and then drove south towards Windhoek. Our initial plan was to camp at Waterberg national park. As if was almost 4 pm as we left the Africats foundation we decided to drive south and camp at some place on the way. On the way we stopped at the Wewelsberg farm north of Okhahandja where they also provided camping place for tourists. The farm had the camping place in the garden, which was nice. The greenery provided a soothing effect to the eyes which was tired of the seeing the dry arid landscape all the time. In the evening we heard some calls from some strange bird. For me it sounded like that from peacocks. Since Africa didn’t have any peacocks we were wondering what the source of the noise is. Surprisingly it was indeed coming from the pet resident peacocks of the farm. They had a couple of male as well as female ones there. Pretty strange to find these beautiful birds in this part of the world! 

Day 15: Spitzkoppe to Dinosaur Tracks

After breakfast and shower we left Spitzkoppe towards mount Etjo lodge; atleast that was our plan, to camp at Mount Etjo lodge which is a private farm with their own collection of game in the farm. The driving was easy as most of the time we were driving in tarred roads. We drove through Usakos, Karibib, Omaruru and then Kalkfeld where we took a diversion towards Mount Etjo. We reached the lodge gate and then proceeded towards the campsite which is about 15 kms away. At the lodge entrance we ringed the bell and waited for around 20 mins. But no one came, may be because it is Christmas day and they are not open. Disappointed, we went back to the road and drove to the next campsite that we saw in the map, which is about 10 km away. In the travel guide it is also shown as the site of the Dinosaur tracks which was imprinted on the rocks about 150-200 million years ago. The small camp and lodge run by a german couple who immigrated to Namibia about 16 years before, was totally empty, except us.

After parking the car, we straight away visited the dinosaur prints nearby. There were 2 tracks, from a three toed, two-legged dinosaur, one from a bigger species and the other from a smaller species, both carnivorous. I wonder how they found/identified the prints in the first place and that too in a vast country like Nambia. Moreover, the prints looked more like the other holes in the rocks in first look. But on closer look the tracks from the 2 legs were visible.

The owner came for a chat afterwards. He said the bigger foot prints belonged to the ones which are about 3-4 m high when standing on both feet’s. But most of the time they walk crouched with 2 feet’s and 2 forelegs like a bear. Then they should be around 1.5-2 m high. It was also nice to chat in german with him after a long time. The night was uneventful. Dinner, wine, music and no night photography as the sky were cloudy

Day 14: Spitzkoppe Camp

 Today is 24^th December, we didn’t go anywhere and decided to relax at the camp. After breakfast we decided to walk to the reception to book for one more night at the camp. As our campsite was the farthest from the gate it took almost an hour to reach the reception. I also bought some souvenirs from there. The return to the campsite was more strenuous as it was close to noon and the temperature was at it maximum. Still there was some nice breeze to cool as down a little. We took almost an hour again to reach back to the campsite, a good exercise. Afternoon we dozed off in our tent, which was hot inside. But the mild breeze helped again. As it is Christmas eve Bru called home using our satellite phone. I called one of my friends back home to say that everything is ok so far. Before leaving home I left the route map with more or less approximate dates with my friend so that they can raise alarm when I don’t show up in the designated spots in time. Just a safety backup, which I do for all my roadtrips.

I thought of calling Gela, and then decided against it. Though it hurts, it’s not worth I guess. Wished it was different. At night I prepared the campfire. We had chicken and some chocolate that we bought from Hentis bay. Some barbeque, a dessert, and cold beer around campfire, under the stunning African skies; what a way to celebrate Christmas in the wild, we simply loved it!!

Day 13: Torra Bay to Spitzkoppe

Last night was windy throughout with the noisy sound of the tent fluttering in the wind. The camp cleaners said that this is not normal and the weather is expected to stay like this for 3 days. We finished the breakfast as soon as possible and then left the camp for good. The sea shore between the Torra Bay and the Ugab gate of the skeleton coast down south has some 4-5 ship wrecks. Most of it has disintegrated over the period of time. I was still hoping to catch hold of some them and also take some snaps of it. The only problem is that most of them are not at all signposted and are also very difficult to access it from the road. So there is a risk of driving through deep sand to reach them. We decided not to do it. Unfortunately even in the couple of wrecks that are signposted, there was hardly anything left in the wrecks. That was really disappointing.

However the route from Torra to the Ugab gate was stunning, like a lunar landscape. Vast plains of emptiness, with occasional greenery and some shrubs in the river delta. Some of the portions in the route had huge sandstorms with hardly any visibility in the road ahead. Though the rivers looked dry and barren from outside, there is an underground river running which supported these plants. It is these underground rivers that support the famous desert elephants in these regions. The ellies use their tusk to dig holes so as to reach this river water.

On the way we made a stop at the Ugab lagoon which was close to the sea. It was a good decision as we got lucky to see 3 flamingos there. As we came closer to the Ugab gate and also further south towards the Hentis Bay the shore was crowded with the Namibian/South African tourists on their fishing holidays. Even there was relatively huge traffic with their big trucks. We stopped at small windy town of Hentis bay to refuel and resupply. Then we took the route towards the camp at Spitzkoppe.

I had previously camped here about 8 years back on my first trip to Namibia. It was the trip in which I fell in love with this beautiful continent. The Spitzkoppe camp is between huge boulders, in the middle of nowhere, isolated from humanity. My kind of place actually, and I loved it then :-) At that time the camp was pretty much isolated, with the camp was a means to support the local bushman community running it. But this time the whole place looked different, with a lot of shacks on the way to the camp selling crafts. The camp was also renovated with a new gate, reception, craft shop, a small restaurant and pub, and chalet. The last time there was only a crossbar in the track with a few bushman sitting around to guide the tourists. They also said there is a new resort with pools behind the boulders.  Now there were more campsites between the rocks and also more guests. Still the campsites were spread out over a huge area that one can hardly see or hear your neighbouring campsite.

We got a nice campsite between huge boulders with a fire pit. It was nice, with the rocks providing the much needed wind protection. After our camping experience at Skeleton coast the last thing I want was a windy night. We set up the camp and in late afternoon I drove around the rocks to the place where there is a natural rock arch. I remember taking a lot of photos from there last time. Being at an elevated position the scenery was beautiful from the top. At night after dinner by the campfire it was again time for sky gazing and star photography. 

Day 12: Palmwag to Torra Bay

Today starts our journey towards the infamous Coast of Skulls or Skeleton coast. Earlier times the Skeleton Coast had a formidable reputation as the fogs and the strong currents forced many ships into the uncharted sandbags of the west coast of Namibia. Even if the sailors survived the wreck, there is hardly any chance to survive the barren landscape towards the interior desert.

We started in the morning from Palmwag and we were not sure whether we will be getting the camping spot in Torra Bay or in the northern most point open to the public – Terrace Bay. Still we thought we will drive to there and check at the Springbok gate – one of the entry points to the Skeleton coast. The route as expected was beautiful. As it has become default in our journey so far the landscape changed from red rocky mountains to flat sandy plains towards the border of the park. Once we reached the gate we got the permit to enter the park from the check post. We enquired about the camping possibilities and the lady in the gate called the Torra bay office and confirmed the availability. Also, she informed us that there is no longer camping possibility at Terrace Bay.

As we drove toward Torra Bay we came across the famed Welwetchia plants or Welwetchia Mirabilis in the plains. It is Namibia’s most famous species of plant. At first glance they look like a foliage which emerges from the wooden base in the barren land. It is said that Welwetchia can live for over 1000 years, though it is not clear how they get water in this dry and harsh gravel plains. Other than that it was just barren land. As we approached towards Torra sand dunes started appearing along the way. Mostly flat and sandy plains with monstrous sand dunes was an impressive sight. The roads were also very good, which came as a surprise as I was expecting the worst roads. As we closed on the camp we started seeing huge tented camps in the middle of empty barren land. We were totally shocked to see that. It is the Christmas holiday season in Namibia and one of the favourite hobbies of the white Namibians/South Africans is fishing in the sea during Christmas. For us it was hugely disappointing to see a party camp site with loud music and huge tented camps. And that too at a place where we least expected it – in the Skeleton coast. What an irony!

On the other hand we were lucky that we got the camping spot in this crowd. We paid the rent at the reception and then proceeded to check out Terrace Bay which is ~ 52 kms north from Torra Bay. The main road along the coast, C34, towards from Hentis Bay to Terrace bay is what is locally called as the salt road. Made of salt, gypsum and gravel, which has been hardened over years is almost roak solid as a tarred road. One can drive as fast as possible, as long as they are concentrated enough. Once in Terrace Bay we could see only a lodge and couple of administrative buildings there. There is also a restaurant but that was also empty. We came back to Torra Bay and set up our camp. It turned out to be a terribly windy day with icy cold winds blasting from the Atlantic. We struggled to make fire and cook. At night we even had to put on winter clothes to beat the cold. It was not really a comfortable night.

Day 11: Purros to Palmwag

In the morning we went for a guided tour of the Himba village. The camp which was run by the Himbas arranged a local guide named Dax for the visit to a nearby village. Dax was born in this village and his half-sister still lives there. The village itself was very small with only some 6-8 huts inside a boma/fence. Every village has holy fire. The holy fire in the surrounded by the huts, with the goat shed located close to the holy fire. The holy fire should always burn. It is considered as their link to their ancestors. Only the chief can sit near the fire and he is the only authrorized person to talk with the ancestors. When the chief dies the body is kept near the fire and the next person takes over. Also when a person is sick, the person is brought near the fire and the chief requests the ancestors to heal the person.

Each family has 3 huts - the main hut where they sleep, the second hut where they spend the day, and the third hut for food storage. The main hut is made with sticks and plastered with cow dungs. They apply the dung again when the walls start cracking. The second hut is mostly of sticks so that there is ventilation through the gaps. The third hut entrance is little higher to prevent the kids from reaching the storage. The goat shed is only for the calves/baby goats so as to separate it from their mothers. The mother cow comes in one by one to feed the baby and then the women of the village milk the cow too. The Himbas are pastoral people and they follow the rains so that their cattle can always graze. In the village we visited the older women has stayed behind as it became difficult to travel for the older people. Only the men and the younger women had gone with the cattle.

The skin of the Himba people is always red in colour. The red colour is made from a paste made of the fine dust from the ochre rock mixed with animal fat and applied to the skin. This is to make them look good, and make the skin smooth. They also apply a paste made from herbs and fat around the neck to stop the mopane bees. The Himba girl starts wearing a head ornament when whey become women. And they remove it only when there is death in the family. Only the Himba men wash their body and the women never take bath. Instead they smoke their body from a fire put with pleasant smelling wood. The women wear different dresses for different occasion. The different dresses are made from different animal skins – cattle, goat etc.

When the boys become men, the boys are brought near the holy fire and the professional deskinner does the deskinning. In Himba culture all the front tooth of all Himba people are removed. This is also done around the holy fire and the removed tooth is thrown in the direction where they are born. The Himba bury their dead. And marriage is done by the girl or boys wishes. The chief calls the elders from other families and then gives the girl away to the boy. The chief also advices the bride on the new rules the girl should follow as a wife before they go the new family. There were also some handicrafts displayed in the village made by the Himba women. We bought some baskets, mainly as a way to support their culture.

When Dax was guiding us a group of german tourists arrived at the village in 3 cars. Without asking for any permission they simply entered the village and started looking around the huts. When Dax politely informed them that there is an entrance fee for tourists they simply left. We were stunned by their rude and disrespectful behaviour. After all, what they did is to enter somebody else’s house without permission. Stupid arrogant tourists!!!

After the Himba village visit we moved towards Seesfontain. The route was amazing. Near Purros the tracks were sandy, then it became rocky and sometimes we had to drive through riverbeds. Later on the landscape completely changed to vast plains, with a fusion of colours. At one point the ground was red sand, with yellow dried grass over the surface, dark brown rocky mountains in the background at a distance, with blue skies and white clouds!!!! Stunning view! Purros to Seesfontain is only 100 kms, but it takes approximately 3 hrs to reach there. We stopped at the old german fort at Seesfontain again to take a break. Then we proceeded back to Palmwag (approximately 110 km) along the gravel road. At one point the windshield of our car got a crack from a stone flying from a passing by truck. That was bad! First the tyre replacement and now we have to replace the windshield as well.

We reached the Palmwag camp at 4:30 pm. We parked the car in the camp and immediately jumped into the pool. We came across footprints of the resident bull around our camp. At night there were also sounds from a leopard nearby. Close to the wild, can’t complain!